Artist ROLL CANVAS

TIP: Hi! This is Jean Terpack from Augusta, GA. I have found the Uni Paint Oil Based Paint Pen works great on my floorcloth detail work, and it doesn't bleed when you varnish!

TIP: We receive so many requests for non-skid backing either brush-on or spray-on; I want to tell you the reason LakeArts does not carry this product. It turns yellow, picks up unwanted dirt, sand, pet hair, gets tacky when wet and is not archival. We do suggest using a very thin flat rubber mat, not the large waffle weave as used under area rugs.

Q: Before I hem my floorcloth with HemSet tape it lies flat. When I finish the hem it pulls and buckles on the canvas toward the corners. Does anyone else have this problem and or know how to fix it? Thank you .

A: Do not stretch or pull the tape but gently lay the tape on the canvas. When you have applied the tape to all areas to be hemmed, remove the protective film from the topside of the tape. Starting at the center of each edge press the creased hem over the tape to form the hem. Sometimes if the tape is hot or warm it is very elastic and will stretch as you apply it to the canvas and will then shrink when it cools causing puckers. Keep both the canvas and the tape in the same environment and temperature to help control this effect.

Q: I didn't buy my canvas from LakeArts, because I didn't know about you at the time. I will definitely order from you from now on. I just bought this canvas at a craft store. It said it was for floor clothes, but didn't even give the weight? It was primed on one side. First I hemmed it with Liquid Nails, then painted my design with acrylic paints. Then I put 5 coats of sealer, Right Step, on the top, and 3 coats on the back, then a week later I put the bowling alley wax on. I took a class a couple of years ago, and don't think we had to paint it with something before we started our design? I'm almost positive we didn't do anything to the back. I do other art work, and have several customers that want rugs, but I guess I'll just not seal the back, to make sure they stay flat. If the canvas was primed on both sides would it still get wavy when sealing the back? Is your poly fabric going to be sturdy enough for a 7 X 10 rug, since it weighs less than the cotton canvas?

A: There are many methods for painting FLOORCLOTH but the only method we know works is by following the Beginner Basics from the beginning. It sounds like you put a lot of time and effort into your project but I cannot help if you did not follow our 10 step program because there are so many things that can go wrong when painting on un-stretched canvas.

The PolyMural canvas works great for Floorcloth because it does not shrink the way cotton canvas does but it is a little lighter in weight. Many of our customers do prefer it just because it is so much easier to work with.

The one step that may have caused the biggest problem was doing the hem first. I can not speak for your instructor because many teachers do recommend hemming first but canvas shrinks and if you do the hem first your are going to run into problems. Also, if you do not seal the back there is nothing to protect the canvas from moisture or dirt penetrating the fabric causing it to deteriorate over time.

Q: Why do I have to seal the back of my floorcloth if it is already primed on the front and the back?

A: Just because the canvas has been primed this does not mean it has been sealed! The priming on the back of Floorcloth is used only on smaller sized floorcloth canvas to give the canvas more weight. The purpose of Gesso, the priming, is to act as an absorbent ground used to provide a good working surface, protect the substrate fiber and make the paint stick to the canvas, it does not seal the canvas.

WWW.J3Creations.Net

Q:Hi! My name is Lynne and I'm a decorative artist. For the past 10 years, I've worked mainly on walls and furniture, but my new favorite thing is making floorcloths! I don't have to worry about hauling bulky furniture or climbing ladders! I started experimenting with floorcloths about 5 years ago when a client wanted some floor art. My first projects were on vinyl and linoleum (because it's so much quicker and easier) but I'm finding that clients prefer canvas.

In learning how to deal with canvas, I made lots of mistakes with hemming, priming, bleeding paints, wrinkles........the technical problems seemed to be overwhelming and not worth the effort! The small projects were a snap, but larger ones were a nightmare.........and expensive! I did extensive research before I attempted making canvas floorcloths, but I became confused by the many different directives! Sometimes things work........and sometimes they don't!

I found this website and have ordered your products, and I have my fingers crossed! I'm working on a 7'x10' floorcloth for a very important client........and I'm using all your instructions and products. So far, so good.........and your ideas make more sense than any I've seen!

I have an extensive art background and a degree in Interior Design. I'm hoping to make floorcloths for the rest of my life, so I'd appreciate any advice.........from anyone!

My tip: Build a sturdy work table (about 32" high...or at your hip level) as large as your work room can accommodate. (Mine is 8'x12') You can use the space underneath for storage of materials (paints, fabric swatches, rolled canvas, works-in-progress, etc.) A work table saves back and knee strain...........and your projects will dry faster.

I'd appreciate any feedback! Thanks! LZYMARIS@aol.com

Q:Hi
I've made a couple of floorcloths and have a question about finishing the
back.
The first cloth I used the Fredrix Floorcloth Canvas (primed on both sides),
the second I used Fredrix Dixie 123.
What is the best way to finish the back so it does not buckle?

Thanks so much for your time.
Barbara Obeid
bobeid@optonline.net
A:I also use the Dixie 123 primed top side only and always struggle to keep it flat, persistence always wins out. By applying several coats of latex paint to the front and back I always end up with a very flat floorcloth. Sometimes if I get humps I apply more paint to the hump which seems to make it shrink and lay flat. You may need to do this in several areas and you may have to do this to both the front and back. I hope this tip helps. Good luck, Narda

I bought my canvas from you to check the quality etc for the floorcloths that I offer my customers on my website, http://www.ColonialFiberArts.com, and I am very pleased with your products, and especially like the JW’s Right Step Clear Varnish, it is nice and flexible! So, here is the photo of the cloth I made using your products. The floorcloth is called “Happy Jalepenos”.

Nettie

Colonial Fiber Arts

Hello. My name is Kathy Schultz from Peachtree City, GA. I have been creating floorcloths for several years now and absloutely LOVE the process. And the tips from Lakearts for finishing and hemming give the absolutely best result. My Tip: I used to use the brush on latex non-slip backing and I found what you found - yellowing, dirt, and lots of pet hair sticking. YUK! This does not bode well for cloths that are for sale in a shop. The dirty backs make them look "used." I have found (available at home improvement centers) a thin foam tape that you can apply to the back and it works great as a "non-slip". I no longer apply it before I sell the cloth, but recommend that the customer apply it later. (The tape is white, and does tend to get dirty, but not sticky like the other stuff, and much easier to apply.)

Kathy

Kathy_Schultz@fca.com

(Tip for Gina Towarnick on work area.) I staple my floorcloths to a wooden frame that I have built - as if it is on a artist's stretcher. This allows me to stand the floorcloth up and paint vertically, or lay it down if it is small enough.

Marne Rummler

Mt. Pleasant, SC