Floorcloth & Placemats
Preprimed floorcloth & placemats by Fredrix®
90090 beginner floorcloth instructions by Narda
Although we go to great extremes to help our customers with all your FLOORCLOTH needs we cannot teach a floorcloth lesson over the phone. If you have bought you canvas from LakeArts and have followed our “Floorcloth Beginner Basics” we will try to assist you if you send your questions to e-mail: email@example.com
FLOORCLOTH PRIMED FRONT AND BACK
Fredrix Creative Floorcloth
Fredrix Floor Cloth Canvas is ideal for stenciling and decorative painting. It’s made of heavy 12 oz cotton duck, double-primed on one side, and single-primed on the other side, with white acrylic primer. It has acid-free sizing.
Extra heavy cotton duck, 12oz, #10.
Double acrylic primed for a smooth surface to accept oil, acrylic or stenciling paints.
All our primed canvas is shipped rolled.
Fredrix Creative Placemats
Fredrix Canvas Placemats are made from an extra heavy 12oz. cotton.
They are double acrylic primed on one side for a smooth and rigid surface. 13-1/2″x17-1/4″ (34.29×43.81cm)
Floorcloth Hemming Instructions
1. To create a 2″ wide hem, lay the preprimed canvas, painted side up, on a smooth, clean surface. Measure 2 inches (5 cm) in from the edge and lay a straightedge along these marks. Pencil a line along the side of the straight edge, letting your line extend into the hem allowance.
2. On each end of this line, measure 2 inches (2 cm) in from the outside edge and make a mark. Take the right angle and set it on the mark with a 2-inch (5 cm) hem allowance along the outside edge. Lay the straightedge over the right angle to create a perpendicular line. Pencil this line along the side of the straightedge, letting your line extend into the hem allowance to the top. Turn your canvas and mark a 2″ hem on the last side using the right angle to square the corners.
3. Your canvas should now have a penciled shape that is either square or rectangular, with a 2-inch (5 cm) border showing all the way around. On each corner you should have two lines that intersect each other. If any of your corners do not appear square, or if your measurements do not match, now is the time to adjust them. Simply pick the straightest side, re-measure, and recheck the corners to make sure they are at right angles.
4. After you’ve checked your measurements, go back to each corner with a right angle and pencil. Lay the right angle across each intersection and mark a line, only on the short hem. When trimmed, this will create something like an envelope flap on the short ends.
5. Trim along the line of the flap and along the corner. Your hem should have two long sides with a straight 2-inch (5 cm) border that ends flush on the corner. There should be two shorter sides (if it’s a rectangle shape) that have an angled 2-inch (5 cm) hem that looks like a wide envelope flap.
6. Lay the straightedge on the canvas along the pencil line that creates the hem. Fold the canvas over the straightedge to crease the hem. When you have done this on all four sides, flip the canvas to the underside, primed side down, and pre-crease it in the opposite direction, again using the straightedge. You should have a folded edge along your pencil line that makes the hem easy to see.
7. Lay a strip of double side stick tape along the inside (the unprimed side) of one of the long hem lines. Trim any excess tape off the end. Be careful not to pull or stretch the tape when applying Peel back the protective coating on the tape.
8. Fold the long hem to the underside of the canvas. Use your hand or the roll of tape to rub up and down along the hem to remove any air bubbles. You now have a hem! Repeat this process on the other long hem.
9. Run the tape along one of the angled ends. Trim the excess tape off the angled end. Fold this hem the way you did in steps 1 and 2; let the hem overlap the two long sides on each corner. You should have nice crisp corners. Repeat this process on the other angled end.